With traditional Ukrainian dishes at Divo, Jay Rayner tried the food of his forefathers. He was just grateful they'd emigrated.
I think my favourite bit is "There are many words I could use to describe the food served here, but this is a family newspaper and none of them should be available before the watershed. I can't deny my disappointment because the remaining candidates - awful, calamitous, the horror, the horror - don't quite do it justice without the visceral attack of the expletive."